The Ssese Islands are a group (archipelago) of 84 small islands that lie in the northwestern part of Lake Victoria in Uganda. The Islands are part of Kalangala district which lies in the southern central part of the country. The largest island in the archipelago is called Bugala Island and is where Kalangala town is 
located. Bugala is the most developed, populated and is home to the Kalangala district administrative offices. The other islands like Ngamba, Serinya, Bugaba, Bubeke, Bukasa and Bufumira have fewer settlers or have been bought as private property.
Ngamba is also one of the famous islands that make up the Ssese archipelago. Half of it is covered by forest and has been turned into a chimpanzee sanctuary. Ngamba is also home to red tailed monkeys, vevert monkeys, geckos, lizards, snakes and birds. It receives hippos and crocodiles occasionally. The key attraction is the Ngamba Chimpanzee Sanctuary. The sanctuary rehabilitates orphaned or rescued chimps and provides them a new home of plenty.
Other than Bugala and Ngamba, there is also Banda Island and Bulago Island. Banda Island has been turned into a resort for tourists interested in a private retreat where they can go for nature walks, birding, primates a reptile viewing. The waters in Banda island are excellent for swimming and boat riding. Bulago Island meanwhile is located east of Entebbe international airport. It is one of the most famous and biggest islands within the Ssese Archipelago with a surface area of about 510 acres. The Island looks like a human neck when viewed from above hence the name Bulago (meaning neck in Luganda). Bulago is a very beautiful island and is excellent for photography, nature walks and adventure. Many lodges and resorts have been built in the island to allow tourists enjoy it natural beauty and privacy
History of The Ssese Islands
According to researchers, the Ssese islands were formed over one million years ago. This was around the time of the formation of the East African Rift Valley. The collision of continental plates and formation of the rift valley led to the elevation of some land-forms, the formation mountains as others remained level. 
Some areas got depressed and got filled with water thus creating rivers and lakes. Among the water bodies that got formed was Lake Victoria. Some land remained elevated within the lake and became what we know as the Ssese Islands.
The Ssese Islands were first inhabited by the Bassese people who are closely related to the Baganda and Basoga but with a distinct language called Lussese. The Bassese people have their own version of how the island was created. According to some of them, Kintu (the first Muganda) lived in these islands and it is where he started the Kingdom of Buganda. Others believe the first inhabitants were giant spiritual beings called the Mbirimu who could change into human or animal forms. On one fateful day, one of the spirits became a lady and gave birth to twins (a boy and a Python). The boy became a traditional healer (Emandwa) and built a shrine for his brother, a python known as Luwala. The local people used to go to the shelter of Luwala to ask for blessing and wisdom on how to prosper in life. However, Emandwa as an intermediary. In the ancient tribal wars between the Baganda and other tribes, they would consult the Emandwa to know from the python the outcome of the war. In one of these consultations, Emandwa gave the Baganda a sacred stick (damula) which was got from a special tree in Bugala Island. This sacred stick is still held in high regard by the Buganda kingdom and is given to every Kabaka.
Because of their connection with ancient gods, the Ssese Islands have some of the most powerful witch-doctors in Uganda. Many Ugandan’s still believe in traditional witch-doctors and religion. Thousands visit the Ssese Island each year to consult the sitting Emandwa and ask the python for protection, fortune and prosperity. After an Emandwa dies, another is chosen by Luwala (Python) to succeed him. Every Emandwa is picked by the spirits and dedicates all his life to Luwala. In case Luwala wants to communicate with his people, he talks through the Emandwa by taking over his body. The current Emandwa is not from the Luwala (python) family. He was chosen by human elders because the one from the lineage is still young. Luwala (python) is said to live permanently but in spirit.
In the 20th century, most of the original Bassese people fled the area due to out of break of sleeping sickness which claimed a lot of lives. In the 1980s, some went back to the islands after it was free of the disease causing tsetse flies. However, by then only a few Bassese were left and the original Lussese language lost its popularity. The island is now occupied by different cultural groups including the Bassese, Baganda, Basoga and other tribes within Uganda.
Bugala Island, Fishing and Tourism in the Ssese Islands
Bugala Island is the center of all economic activities within the Ssese Islands. The main economic activities are fishing, agriculture and tourism. However, fishing comes top. Almost every household has a fisherman or someone doing business related to fishing. Unregulated fishing has created a problem of over fishing and if not contained, it could threaten the future livelihood of people in the island. Apart from fishing, there is also subsistence agriculture. This is where people grow crops mainly for home consumption. The main crops grown are matooke, cassava, groundnuts, sweet potatoes and beans. The Islanders also do some livestock keeping on a small scale.
Tourism is growing rapidly and will soon overtake fishing as the leading income generator. Travelers from all over the world go to the different Ssese Islands for honeymoons, camping and weekend vacations. Visiting the Islands is now one of the top things to do in Uganda. What draws visitors to the island are the pristine and serene beaches. The restoration of the 
government ferries and has made transportation of people from Entebbe to the Islands easier. While on a tour of the Ssese islands, tourists have a lot to do. One can simply relax by the beach on a swinging chair or take a walk to enjoy the cool breeze coming from the lake. There are also canoes and boats that can take you to visit several islands at a go. Swimming is very popular but should be done with caution depending on which island you are in. There is a very small risk of catching bilharzia or encountering the odd hippo and crocodile in a few of the islands. Most of the resorts/ lodges on the Ssese Islands have camp fires at night where people have a good time as they drink, eat and listen/dance to the good music. We will be discussing more of the activities in greater detail shortly. Before going to the activities in the Ssese Islands, you might also find the article about what to do in Entebbe interesting.
Activities in Ssese Islands
Bird Watching: The Ssese Islands are one of the best places for bird watching in Uganda. The Ssese Islands are naturally suited to host birds because of the rain forest, water, fish and secluded swamps. Almost all types of birds can be found on the islands. There are also migratory and resident species that are unique to the islands. Those interested in bird watching should not forget to carry a good binocular when visiting the islands. Birders have a chance of spotting the African green broadbill, egrets, sparrows, marabou stocks, crested cranes, shoebill storks, the great blue turaco and much more.
Swimming: The Ssese islands are surrounded by the fresh waters of Lake Victoria making it an ideal place for swimming. Fresh in a sense that the waters have no salt and are less contaminated. The most notable places to go for a swim are the Bulago islands and Mutumbala beach at Bugala Island. However, swimming is not completely safe in all the islands. Some of the islands have crocodiles and hippos that can endanger one’s life. As we noted earlier, there is a chance of getting infected with bilharzia though this is very rare these days. It is why some resorts or accommodation facilities have built swimming pools as an option for their visitors.
Visit Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary: Chimpanzees are one of the most interesting and enthralling animals to watch in the wild. They have very unique social behaviors that leave visitors 
awestruck and engaged. Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary is one of the best places to see chimps in Uganda. The chimpanzees at Ngamba Islands are all orphans that rescued from poachers, pet traders or after losing their parents. Once brought to the Centre, the orphaned chimpanzees are given a new home and given proper care. The Ngamba Island Chimpanzee project was started in 1998 by Jane Goodall Institute and the Uganda Wildlife Authority. Visitors pay a certain amount to be a caretaker for a day, volunteer or watch the chimps feed.
Sport Fishing: Lake Victoria is home to over 270 species of fish. Some are endemic to the areas but the most sought after are the Nile perch and Tilapia. These fish species are some of the most delicious in world. It is believed that before the introduction of the Nile Perch, the lake had over 1,000 species. Sport fishing is very popular and the huge Nile Perch is often the target. The great thing about fishing in Lake Victoria and its islands is that one is allowed to eat the fish. The fish can be fried to be taken with chips and a cold beer.
Game viewing: Most of the Ssese Islands are covered with tropical rain forests and swamps. These forests and swamps are ideal habitat for different wildlife species including small primates, antelopes, sitatunga, hippos and crocodiles. The main primates found on the islands are the red tailed monkeys, vervet monkeys and colobus monkeys. Sitatungas are mostly found in the swampy areas. Hippos and crocodiles are very rare but come from other parts of the lake.
Community and Nature Walks: Many of the Ssese islands are blessed with serene and unspoiled environments. Walking through one of the forests in the islands is soothing and relieving. The islands also have exciting communities with interesting social activities to discover. If you are scared of the canoes and boats, you can simply visit the fishing villages and watch as the fishermen go out and return with their daily catches.
Boat rides, canoeing and horse riding: The Ssese Islands are surrounded by fresh waters that are excellent for boat riding, canoeing and horseback riding. These activities can be arranged by the hotels and resorts within the islands at a fee. One can also hire a boat or canoe from one of the fishermen but we don’t recommend it for the sake of your safety. There are also a few lodges that organize horse riding to discover the beautiful interiors of your island of choice.
Cycling and Beach games: Bikes are excellent for touring new places. Most of the hotels in Bugala Island rent out bikes to guests at a cost. If you are a resident in Kampala, you can move with your own to avoid getting one you don’t like. With a 
bike, you can have a more comprehensive tour of the Island and get to places you wouldn’t reach by car. If biking isn’t your thing, you can simply go to the beach and join other revelers to play soccer or volley ball in the sand.
Agricultural Tours: Different large scale farming projects are being implemented in some of the Islands. Bugala island has been earmarked for large scale palm tree, sunflower and pineapple plantations managed by BIDCO. Visitors to the island can take a tour of one of these large gardens to learn how everything is done from planting, processing to the final product.
Quad Biking: If you thought using a bicycle was an exciting way of touring the Ssese islands, then you haven’t tried Quad bikes. Quad bikes are a quick and enjoyable means of traversing the island in record time. Quad bikes are only hired out by a few resorts in Bugala island. They charge about $25 for a tour of the island and its worth every penny. You can use the bikes to reach all the different parts of the island including the landing sites, fishing villages, forests and beaches. If you are using it to tour the island of Bugala, ensure that you have packed lunch so that you don’t get hungry.
Cultural Visit: The Ssese Islands are one of the few places where people still believe in ancient traditional religion. If you are interested in knowing how the people of Buganda kingdom communicated with their gods, then visiting the Kihumiro cave is highly recommended. This famous cave is where some of the local folks go to seek out help, prosperity and protection from their gods. The cave is a very mystical and strange place to find yourself in. You will find people smoking pipes, speaking in weird sounds as they call out spirits/gods. The shrine is considered sacred and everyone is required to remain silent and remove their shoes.
The other traditional or cultural spot is Wanema’s shrine in Bubeke Island. This large historical hut is built in traditional design with a roof made of grass and walls made of soil. The shrine has so much history and you will learn about it from the female caretakers. While at the shrine, a visitor has to respect the traditional norms by giving out sacrifices in form of money, goats and chicken. One also has to remove his/her shoes and avoid taking any pictures of the shrine. You don’t want to annoy the spirits in the shrine by taking photos.
Visit the John Speke House: In 1863, John Speke put up shelter in Lutoboka forest on the Ssese islands. John Speke was a British explorer who discovered the source of the Nile river. As he searched for the source of the Nile, Speke came as far as the Ssese Islands where he constructed a bay in Lutoboka forest. The shelter has remained there to this day and remains intact.
Visit the Nanziri waterfalls: These scintillating waterfalls were named Nanziri in honor of the god of the waterfall. They are nestled between Nanziri cave and Wanema’s shrine. It is also a sacred place for many of the local people who worship from the waterfall. The remains of sacrifices to the gods can be seen all over the place including pieces of meat, cowrie shells, bark cloths and coffee beans. The waterfall god is normally sought by fishermen for blessings, wealth and protection before going out fishing. If successful in their fishing expedition, they come back to the shrine to thank the gods. The waterfalls are also s source of medicine to cure common ailments.
How to get there
The only way to reach any of the Ssese islands is by water. The government provides three ferries to Kalangala town (Capital of Bugala Island). The ferries include MV Kalangala, Bukakata Ferry and MV Ssese. From Kalangala, MV Kalangala starts its journey at around 8:00am and reaches Nakiwogo in 
Entebbe by 11am. It gets back to Kalangala from Nakiwogo at 2:00pm. Each journey takes 3 hours and costs 10,000 Shillings for the economy class and 14,000 shillings for the luxury class. There is a bar and restaurant on the ferry where one can buy drinks and snacks. It’s carrying capacity is 100 people, their luggage and a maximum of 8 cars. MV Kalangala is the largest water vessel going to the Ssese Islands and is one of the few transport mediums that live on time. Given its strict timetable, it is very possible to miss out on MV Kalangala if you arrive even a minute late. In this case you could use locally made boats to Kalangala but these are not so safe and hiring them is it at your own risk.
The second ferry begins its route from Bukakata in Masaka to Bugoma. This is not as punctual and pronounced as the MV Kalangala because fewer people use it. The other option for travelers to reach the Ssese islands is by sailing with exclusive boats which are costly but faster. They carry fewer people but with higher quality services compared to the public ferry. These private boats are owned by businessmen or resorts in Entebbe and Ssese islands.
Accommodation in Ssese Islands
A visitor cannot fail to find where to stay in most of the Ssese islands. There are many accommodation facilities offering budget and mid-range services. Most are self-contained with bedding, showers, bathrooms, room service, food and beverage. The lodges are surrounded by beautiful scenery, sand beaches, fresh waters, green gardens and palm trees. Here are some of the lodges to consider when visiting the Ssese islands:
Brovad Sands Lodge: This is arguably the best accommodation facility in Bugala islands. It offers services that are mid-range to luxury with very spacious and self-contained rooms. Each room has modern bedding, a telephone, a study desk, a bathroom and wireless internet. The outside environment is world class with beautifully manicured gardens, soothing fresh air and a swimming pool. The facility also has a bar, restaurant, spa, sauna and a conference room with loudspeakers. Hotel staff will treat you like a king throughout your stay at the lodge. If you are looking for a luxury lodge with great privacy while visiting the Ssese islands, Brovad Sands Lodge is one place you should seriously consider.
Ssese Habitat Resort: Since its opening in 2008, Ssesse Habitat Resort offers all categories of rooms in Bugala Island. You can choose to book a budget room that costs as low as 50,000 Uganda shillings or go for the ultra-luxury ones costing 800,000 shilling. All rooms are self-contained and have a Television screen. If you have your own tent, you can also consult the Resort and be allowed to camp within their premises. The food and beverages are top class.
Hornbill Camp: This is the best place for camping and a more private tour. It is built in a secluded part of Kalangala, an area with no noise pollution and great privacy. It offers all the basic accommodation services a traveler would wish for while exploring all that the Island have to offer privately.
Mirembe Beach Resort: The resort is also located at Bugala Islands. The resort came into business in 2004 and is one of the oldest accommodation facilities in Bugala Island. It is a 10-acre property with both standard rooms and private executive rooms. The resort offers magnificent views of Lake Victoria and is located next to a tropical rain forest where guests can take nature walk to meditate. Camping services are also offered at the facility.
Ssese Islands Beach Hotel: This Hotel is located at Lutoboka bay, overlooking Lake Victoria and its other islands. It is a hotel for all categories of travelers who come to the islands for leisure, business and social events. The rooms are of high quality with each having a TV screen and study desk. The Hotel also has a bar and restaurant serving all types of drinks and food. Ssese Islands Beach Hotel never bores its guests as there is so much to do. One can go swimming at the beach, play soccer/volleyball with other revelers or golf in the beautifully manicured gardens. The tropical rain forest next to it is home to antelopes, small primates and birds.
Banda Island: This is more than just an accommodation facility but a separate island. It is private property and an excellent place to go for a long weekend or vacation with no disturbances from the outside world. The Island was owned by Dominic Symes who passed away in 2011 but everything has been kept intact by his friends. The island has cottages, bandas and camping tents. Guests on longer vacations have a lot to keep them engaged. They can play beach volleyball in the sandy beaches, go for nature walks in the forest, fish in Lake Victoria and or spot small primates. Hippos leave close to this island.
Panorama Cottages: This is a 3-star lodge with eighteen self-contained chalets. Each cottage is built using local materials and decorated with African Art. Food is great here and ranges from local to international cuisines. You can choose from a variety of juices and alcoholic drinks. If you have your own tents, you can set it up at the main campsite. Expect a fire to be set up in the evening for all those who are camping.
Islands Club: The Island club is a basic accommodation facility and one of the pioneer lodges on the islands. It has self-contained wooden bungalows and tented camps for its guest. If you love tasty fried Tilapia and Nile Perch, then this is one place we would recommend. If you have your own tents, you can carry it along with other gear and set them up at the main campsite. Setting personal tents in the hotel premises will cost you $10.
Kingfisher Camping site: This Site is located near the dock where the MV Kalangala lands. It is a budget accommodation facility with very basic services offered. It is one of the cheapest lodges for travelers and can be a good place to stay for a night as you explore better options. The site has a volley ball court on its beach.
What to pack while on a Ssese Islands Tour
In order to have a fantastic experience while at the Ssese Islands, one needs to be prepared in advance. All the important items required when visiting a tropical island need to be secured in advance. The sun comes out every day and the rains can come at every time. Average temperatures are 27°C. Here is a list of things to consider in your packing list for a tour of the Ssese Islands.
Clothes and footwear: The clothes have to be two layer and not too skimpy especially if you also plan to tour areas with local settlements. Do not forget to park shorts, Caribbean skirts and dresses. Sun glasses, a cap and a swimming attire should also be brought. You might need a sweater for the cold evenings and a rain jacket when it gets wet. Sandals must be carried if you are planning to spend a lot of time at the beach. Good hiking shoes will help you a lot during the nature walks in the tropical forests. In addition to what I have mentioned so far, a traveler has to come with an insect repellent, body jelly, sanitizers, body scrubber, bathing and laundry soap. Some of the items could be provided by the hotel.
Trip accessories: The Ssese islands are for adventure, fun and merry-making. A visitor has to carry gadgets that will make the trip more exciting and memorable. These include a camera to capture every moment, binocular for bird watching and a music player to listen to your favorite tunes while relaxing by the beach. Board games and novels should also be carried for the evening camp retreats.
Basic medication and first aid kit: Since this is not your usual environment and you would be engaging in different activities, don’t be surprised if you get sick or injured. You need to carry some painkillers, malaria tablets, disinfectants, medical spray, a bandage and plaster. Do not forget to move with your Identification documents, bank/financial transaction card and a mobile phone with a local sim card.
